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熟记这些词汇,你就了解德国酒了

2016-08-24 12:12:34来源:葡萄酒智库

       网络上对于德国葡萄酒标的一些常用词还是比较少的,大约集中在QbA、Qmp、Kabinett、Spätlese、Auslese、Beerenauslese (BA) 、Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)、Eiswein这类和葡萄成熟度有关的分级词汇上,此外就是产区名称,不过产区名称也都以Mosel-Saar-Ruwer(2007年以后可以只标Mosel)为多,顶多在加上Rheinhessen 、Rheingau、Pfalz、Nahe 。

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      所以今天就摘要了一些个人觉得需要认识的德国酒词汇,而且我相信依照目前德国酒的发展趋势,和这些词汇有关的酒款也会逐渐出现在市场,本篇主要借用美国酒商MOSEL WINE MERCHANT所编辑的词汇表摘录,我介绍的顺序不依据英文字母,而是把个人觉得相关的放在一起,另外加上一些自己的理解或理解。希望对喜欢德国葡萄酒的朋友能够有一些帮助。
 
 
Alte Reben
 
      Old vines. An unregulated term, usually meaning the vines are between 25 and 100 years old. On the Mosel these are often ungrafted. 
 
      就是老藤啦!不过,这个也不是一个被明确规范的术语,因此25岁的年轻人到100岁的人都是老藤。在Mosel地区通常是没有接枝的。
 
 
trocken
 
      Dry. Cannot be more than 9 grams of residual sugar per liter. 
 
      干,就是不甜,依据规范每公升的糖不能超过九克。
 
 
halbtrocken
 
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      “Half-dry.” Cannot be more than 18 grams of residual sugar per liter. Many growers dislike the term and have either replaced it with “feinherb” (though its definition is technically different) or done away with it altogether. Unsurprisingly, this switch has led to misunderstandings, because German wines without a designation are thought to be sweet. 
 
      这个是最传统的规范,一半干或一半不甜,其实意思就是:有点甜又不会太甜,就像大家去咖啡厅会点的半糖或少糖,依据规范每公升的糖不能超过十八克,不过这个词显然是很德国理哲式的逻辑思维,不但消费者不容易懂,连很多种植者都不采用,而改以下面会介绍的“feinherb”代替,当然个新词汇也造成一些混淆,让德国酒与甜这个两个概念有些变化(这个部份在介绍Grosses Gewächs时再补充说明)。
 
 
feinherb
 
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      A relatively new tasting term on the label that many domaines use in place of halbtrocken. The legal difference is that feinherb has no residual sugar limit, meaning that the wines can extend well beyond the 18-gram limit of the halbtrocken category, and can sometimes contain over 30 grams per liter of residual sugar. 
 
      这个词是个人觉得最需要认识的,就算不想在德国酒的知识层面探索,只想用感官体验德国酒的朋友,因为标有feinherb的酒款越来越多,很多酒庄都爱用这词,也越来越爱酿这种甜度的酒款。feinherb是一个没有严格定义的词,没有残糖的规定,因此从十八克到三十克都有可能,但是通常会比Kabinett不甜一些,就像是去买奶茶时候,你很可能会点半糖或少糖,但是甜度的标淮根据不同的店家而定,但是大家都很喜欢点半糖或少糖,或许未来德国白酒也是;另外,feinherb和葡萄成熟度没有绝对的关系,所以可以看到feinherb的QbA、Kabinett、Spätlese、Auslese。
 
 
Goldkapsel
 
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      An unofficial means for producers to signify particularly special (normally riper and rarer) wines. Growers literally top the bottle with a gold (or, even a "long" gold) capsule. Used mainly for Auslesen, though some Spätlesen are “Gold Kap.” 
 
      这个应该是比较常见的,意思就是比较高档、比较特殊(当然也比较贵),有著金色的脖子(金色的封帽),通常都是Auslese,也有一些是Spätlese。
 
 
Grosslage
 
      A legally defined region consisting of a number of different villages and single vineyards (Einzellagen). Created by the controversial 1971 Law, they inherently discredit the single-vineyard culture by allowing lesser sites to be linked to place names of greater stature and quality, e.g., Piesporter Goldtröpfchen (Einzellage) and Piesporter Michelsberg (Grosslage). 
 
      Grosslage这个词是在1971年规范的,这类有关的酒款其实还蛮多,但是比较少提到这个词,这是一个很笼统的产区规范,最常见到的产区是Piesporter Michelsberg,在这个广泛的产区定义下,可能包括数个村庄或葡萄园,基本上是和单一葡萄园的定义完全不同,让一些小葡萄园或产区都能归类到一个比较知名的产区类别下。
 
 
Einzellage
 
      An individual single vineyard, e.g., the Juffer in the village of Brauneberg, hence Brauneberger Juffer. The Mosel has a great tradition of single vineyards, with nearly 10,000 different sites named on the labels stretching back more than a hundred years, but the number of single-vineyard designations was greatly reduced after the 1971 German Wine Law to less than 500. Many of the top sites, similar to Burgundian climats, were grouped together into official single vineyards, often including tracts of less privileged vines on flat ground. In most cases hiding behind the best-sounding name are many former sites, which were no longer allowed on the label. In recent years, there has been a counter-movement against this enduring law. Dedicated growers have begun (illegally and in rejection of bureaucratic protocol) either using these old place-names again or creating new fanciful ones in order to highlight the original best sites. 
 
      Einzellage这个词就是货真价实的single vineyard单一葡萄园,由于Mosel河地区特色与传统,曾经有多达一万个不同的葡萄园,所以才在1971年的规范下,把可以在酒标上标示葡萄园的五百个有一定知名度的葡萄园整合。因此即使Einzellage下也有一些种植在平地的葡萄田,至于没有被列入Einzellage的葡萄园,都可改以Grosslage的方式聚合,例如金波园Piesporter Goldtröpfchen是Einzellage,而平价酒常见的米雪尔堡Piesporter Michelsberg就是Grosslage。
 
 
Grosses Gewächs
 
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      (GG)A designation—meaning “great growth,” a nod to the French Grand Cru— used by the VDP, and recently also the Bernkasteler Ring, to highlight the top dry wines from their members’ best sites. GGs remain a controversial, loaded topic: “top” and “best” are, of course, relative terms; consumers unfamiliar with the term might not know the wines are dry; and the insistence that the wines come in at under 9 grams of residual sugar perhaps sometimes does a disservice to wines that would benefit from more. Still, it is undoubtedly true that some of the finest dry wines in Germany now carry the GG stamp, and time will tell whether it proves an effective labeling strategy or not.
 
      有别于定义不清的Grosslage与过于宽松的Einzellage,VDP酒庄协会组织在1992年开始制定一个新的葡萄园标淮,Grosses Gewächs表示顶级园,类似法国的Grand Cru,但是这个依然存有争议,但是必须强调的是,标有Grosses Gewächs的酒款一定是干白酒或干红酒,这个虽然规范葡萄园,但是同时也限定葡萄酒的糖份不得超过九克。这个规范仍在发展中,依然需要一些时间来看看是否成功。
 
 
Erste Lage
 
      First Growth. A voluntary, sometimes controversial, VDP-only classification system intended to signify vineyards of high quality. Wines bottled as such are identifiable by the “Erste Lage” logo (a numeral “1” with a cluster of grapes) usually written on the label or embossed on a heavy bottle. On the Mosel it can be used for both Qualitäts- and Prädikatswein. The VDP’s effort to highlight the top sites is neither an official nor a comprehensive attempt at vineyard classification, because it pertains only to vineyards belonging to growers in the VDP. As with the term Grosses Gewächs (also VDP), Erste Lage remains a disputed work in progress.( designation used by VDP to denote selected sites suitable for Erstes Gewächs and Grosses Gewächs wines. Also used by VDP in Mosel in conjunction with a Prädikat to design top-level wines from these selected sites. Erste Lage QbA is used for the dry wines.)
 
      这个是VDP对于具有Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs认证的葡萄园以及Mosel地区的顶级葡萄园的认证。(我个人把Erstes Gewächs、Grosses Gewächs、Erste Lage都视为干白酒顶级园的认证,坦白说,我觉得德国人还蛮喜欢把简单的东西过度复杂化)。
 
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      Pinot Noir. A noble red grape variety that has a long tradition on the Mosel. Because of the late-19th century demand for Riesling, it quickly disappeared and was dealt a further blow when banned by the Nazis. Since 1987, the varietal has experienced a small renaissance and counts today for 4% of overall wine production. 
 
      Spätburgunder就是Pinot Noir黑皮诺,在19世纪中叶以前,连Mosel地区都种植大量的黑皮诺,目前德国种植黑皮诺的产区是Baden、Ahr、Pfalz、Rheingau、Franken为主,其他各个产区也都有生产,连Mosel都有(4%),这几年伴随全球暖化,德国越来越适合种植黑皮诺,因此黑皮诺种植的面积一直扩大,大家尚未能掀起风潮,主要的原因还是出在名称上,因为大家看不懂德国的Spätburgunder。

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